Gold sovereigns · British silver · World coins · Mixed collections · Numismatic sets
Inherited coin collections.
Every coin assessed on its own merits.
Inherited coin collections come in all forms — a neatly organised numismatic album, a tobacco tin of mixed coins found in a drawer, a set of sovereigns kept in a bank envelope for decades. We have handled all of these, and the one thing they have in common is that you cannot tell what is genuinely valuable without looking properly.
We assess each coin individually. A single coin in an otherwise modest collection can be the most significant piece of the lot — and we make sure you know about it. Our written offer lists every item of interest with our valuation reasoning explained clearly.
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Understanding what drives value — a quick reference
Different types of coin are valued on entirely different bases. This table summarises the key drivers before you contact us.
| Coin type | Primary value driver | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Gold sovereigns & half-sovereigns | Gold content, date, mint mark, condition | Date on obverse — Victorian and Edwardian dates with clear lettering; any letters beneath the shield on the reverse (mint marks) |
| Pre-1920 British silver (florins, crowns, shillings) | Silver content (92.5%), date, condition, key dates | Dates before 1920 indicate sterling silver; look for sharp legends and portrait detail |
| 1920–1946 British silver (50% silver) | Silver content, date, higher-grade condition | Dates 1920–1946; same types but lower silver content — value is partly metallic, partly numismatic |
| Commemorative crowns & sets | Numismatic demand, completeness, original packaging | Original boxes or presentation cases, certificates, first-day covers — these matter for crowns |
| World gold coins | Gold content, country, date, condition | French 20 franc Napoleons, American $5–$20 gold, South African Krugerrands, Dutch guilders |
| Scarce British copper & bronze | Date, variety, condition — highly variable | Early Victorian pennies and halfpennies with sharp portraits; William IV and George III copper |
| Mixed world coins (post-1950) | Generally low — metallic or collector value only | Photograph the whole collection; occasionally a modern error coin or low-mintage issue appears |
Cleaning a coin is the single fastest way to destroy its collector value. Even a gentle polish removes the original surface patina that numismatists prize, and can reduce a coin worth several hundred pounds to one worth face value. Leave every coin exactly as you find it — tarnish, verdigris, and all.
What to do before you contact us
You do not need to be an expert. A small amount of preparation makes our assessment faster and more accurate.
- Do not clean any coins under any circumstances. This is the most important step.
- Photograph the collection as a whole first — a spread on a flat surface gives us a sense of the scale and type of material.
- Photograph gold coins individually — both sides. Gold sovereigns especially benefit from close-up date photography.
- Photograph any coins that look older, more worn, or different from the rest — these sometimes turn out to be the most interesting pieces.
- Note whether coins are stored in albums, folders, packets, or loose. Keep them in whatever they are in — do not re-house anything.
- If there are any certificates, purchase receipts, or reference books alongside the collection, photograph those too.
- If you find any coins in capsules or slabs (hard plastic holders with grading certificates), photograph those specifically — they can be significantly more valuable.
Common concerns, answered honestly
"The collection is really mixed — some look valuable and others look like they came from loose change. Is it worth the effort?"
Mixed collections are worth assessing precisely because you cannot tell by eye what is significant. A pre-1920 British florin looks similar to a post-1947 one, but the difference in value is the difference between a silver coin and a copper-nickel one. We sort what matters from what does not and tell you clearly which is which.
"I genuinely do not know what any of these coins are. I wouldn't know a sovereign from a crown."
You do not need to. Photographs are enough for us to identify most coins quickly. For gold coins in particular, a clear photograph of both sides and the date allows us to confirm the type, denomination, and give you an accurate indication of value without you needing to know a thing about numismatics.
"I found a biscuit tin of old coins in the attic — they look like foreign coins mostly. Probably worthless?"
Not necessarily. People were great travellers and savers, and tins often contain a surprising variety of material. Pre-war gold coins from European nations, silver dollars, and early 20th-century coins from the Commonwealth turn up regularly in tin collections. Photograph the contents spread out and let us look — the cost to you is only a few minutes and a photograph.
"There are dozens of old foreign coins in here — coins from Germany, France, various countries. Surely these aren't worth anything?"
Post-1950 foreign circulation coins typically have negligible value. However, pre-war silver coins from major European nations, gold coins from any country, and early 20th-century colonial issues can be genuinely collectable. We distinguish between the two — the modern foreign coins we will identify as low-value straightforwardly rather than padding an offer with items we cannot reasonably buy.
How the process works
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Photograph the collection and send it to us Spread the coins on a flat surface and photograph the whole lot. Then photograph gold coins and any interesting-looking pieces individually, both sides. Email to support@fairvintage.co.uk with a brief description of what you know — even "found in a tin in the attic, no idea what they are" is a perfectly good starting point.
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Preliminary identification and response within two working days We will identify the gold coins, note any key-date British silver, flag anything that merits close examination, and give you a realistic indication of value. We will also tell you honestly if a portion of the collection appears to have little resale value so you know what to expect.
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Free insured postage arranged at our cost Coins are dense and require proper packaging to arrive safely. We provide fully insured, tracked postage and advise on how to pack the collection securely. Gold coins are covered at full declared value throughout transit.
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Hands-on assessment and written offer We examine each coin in person under proper lighting — grading condition, confirming dates and mint marks, weighing gold where necessary. You receive a written offer listing each item of interest with our valuation and reasoning explained so you understand what you are being offered and why.
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Accept, decline, or return any part of the collection You may accept the full offer or any part of it. Payment is made within 72 hours of acceptance. Any coins you choose not to sell are returned to you free of charge, exactly as received.
Frequently asked questions
Should I clean the coins before sending them?
No — never clean coins before assessment or sale. Cleaning is one of the most damaging things you can do to a coin's value. Even gentle polishing removes the original surface patina that collectors prize, and can turn a coin worth several hundred pounds into one worth face value. Leave every coin exactly as you find it — tarnished, dirty, or otherwise. We will assess them as they are.
Do you buy foreign and world coins, or only British?
We consider both. Gold coins from any country — French Napoleons, American Eagles, South African Krugerrands, pre-1933 US gold — are assessed on gold content and numismatic value. World silver coins in good condition, particularly pre-1940 issues from major minting nations, can also be of interest. Low-value modern foreign coins circulated in recent decades are generally outside our scope, and we will tell you this straightforwardly rather than offering a negligible sum to buy the lot.
How much does condition affect the value of a coin?
Enormously — sometimes the difference between two grades is the difference between face value and several hundred pounds. For gold sovereigns and pre-1920 British silver, condition is the primary value driver once the coin's identity is established. A key-date coin in very fine condition can be worth many times the same coin in good condition. We grade every coin honestly and explain our grading in the written offer, so you can understand exactly what difference condition has made to the figure you are looking at.
The collection came in albums and folders — do those add any value?
Original albums and folders can add context and sometimes meaningful value, particularly if they were assembled as a numismatic collection with accompanying reference materials, certificates, or original purchase records. Basic modern coin folders have little independent value but do protect the coins. We assess the collection as a whole including any accompanying materials and explain their contribution to the offer clearly.
Related pages
Not sure what you have — or whether it is worth anything?
Send photographs to support@fairvintage.co.uk or call us on 01234 815116. We will identify what you have and tell you honestly what it is worth.
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