A step-by-step sorting guide
You do not need to be a numismatist to carry out an initial sort. The goal at this stage is not to value the collection — it is to understand what you have well enough to describe it to a specialist. Follow these steps in order.
- Do not clean anything. This bears repeating before any other step. Set this as a rule and enforce it for everyone involved in handling the collection. Cleaning a coin — even with water, even gently — can permanently reduce its value. More on this below.
- Find a clean, well-lit surface. A white sheet of paper or a plain cloth on a table works well. Natural daylight is preferable to artificial light, which can distort the appearance of metals.
- Separate obvious gold coins first. Gold coins — sovereigns, half-sovereigns, and older British denominations — have a warm, consistent yellow colour that does not tarnish. They are also dense and heavy for their size. Set any gold-coloured coins aside immediately and keep them separate.
- Identify pre-decimal silver coinage. British coins minted before 1947 contained real silver (pre-1920 coins were 92.5% silver; 1920–1946 coins were 50% silver). The coins most likely to be silver are florins, half-crowns, crowns, shillings and sixpences from these periods. They will appear lighter in colour than modern cupro-nickel coins and, if tarnished, will show a characteristic dark grey-black patina rather than the greenish tarnish of copper.
- Look for albums, folders and presentation cases. A curated collection is a significant find. Albums suggest deliberate numismatic interest and are likely to contain coins chosen for specific reasons — rarity, grade, completeness of a series. Do not remove coins from their holders or albums.
- Set aside any slabbed coins. A "slab" is a sealed, rigid plastic holder used by professional grading services such as NGC and PCGS. Coins in slabs have been professionally authenticated and graded. These are among the most straightforward items to value and should be kept intact — never attempt to open a slab.
- Group remaining coins loosely by apparent type. Ancient or Roman coins form one group. Pre-decimal British copper (pennies, halfpennies, farthings) form another. Foreign coins another. This does not need to be precise — it simply makes it easier to describe the collection in a few sentences.
Coin categories and priority for specialist assessment
| Coin type | Typical interest level | Key identifiers |
|---|---|---|
| British gold coins (sovereigns, guineas) | Very high — assess first | Warm yellow, no tarnish, heavy for size |
| Pre-1920 sterling silver British coins | High — intrinsic + collector value | Crowns, half-crowns, florins, shillings; dark silver tarnish |
| 1920–1946 50% silver British coins | Moderate — metal content relevant | Same denominations, post-1919 dates |
| Professionally graded / slabbed coins | High — grade confirmed; assess promptly | Sealed rigid plastic holder with certificate insert |
| Ancient / Roman coins | Variable — condition and rarity determine value | Small, irregular, often corroded; distinct iconography |
| Pre-decimal copper (Victorian and Edwardian) | Moderate — key dates and grades can be valuable | Pennies, halfpennies, farthings; copper-brown colour |
| Proof and commemorative sets | Moderate — depends on year, completeness, original packaging | Often in fitted cases; mirror-like surface finish |
| Post-decimal British coins (1971 onwards) | Low unless rare date or error — check before dismissing | Familiar modern coinage; most have only face value |
| Mixed foreign coins | Low in general — occasional exceptions for gold or rarity | Non-English legends; varied metals |
The one rule — never clean the coins
Coin collecting is one of the few fields where the appearance of age and wear is part of an item's documented identity. Professional coin graders assess the original surface of a coin — its luster, its patina, the precise nature of any wear — as evidence of its history and authenticity. Cleaning destroys that evidence permanently.
The damage is not always visible to the non-specialist eye. A coin that appears cleaner and shinier after washing may seem improved. To a numismatist, the altered surface is immediately apparent and reduces the grade — and therefore the value — substantially. A coin that might have graded Extremely Fine and attracted meaningful collector interest becomes a cleaned coin worth a fraction of that.
This applies equally to coins in albums. Do not remove them from their holders to "give them a wipe." Do not use silver polish on coins that appear silver. Do not soak loose coins in any solution. If coins arrive with dirt or debris, leave them as they are and mention it when you describe the collection.
If the collection includes albums, check whether any coins have been removed and replaced with paper inserts or notes. These often indicate that a key coin was sold by the original collector but that the album documents what was there. This context is useful for a specialist buyer and may indicate that the remaining coins in the same series are worth closer attention.
What to tell a specialist buyer
- Whether any gold coins are present — describe colour, size and approximate quantity
- Whether pre-decimal silver coinage is present and roughly how much
- Whether albums, folders or presentation cases are included
- Whether any coins are professionally slabbed (in sealed grading holders)
- Whether any paperwork, receipts or catalogues accompanied the collection
- The approximate overall quantity — a rough count is sufficient
- Storage conditions — whether coins have been kept dry, whether any show heavy verdigris or corrosion
- Any coins you suspect may be unusual, ancient, or significantly old
What to do if you find gold coins
Gold coins warrant particular care, both for their value and for a legal reason that surprises many people: if you discover coins that appear to be treasure under the Treasure Act 1996 — broadly, items more than 300 years old and containing at least 10% precious metal — you are legally required to report the find to the local coroner within 14 days. This applies whether the items were found in the ground or inherited.
In practice, the gold sovereigns and half-sovereigns most commonly found in British coin collections are from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries and fall outside the Treasure Act definition. But ancient gold coins — Roman aurei, medieval gold, hammered gold from before 1700 — must be reported. If you are uncertain, the Portable Antiquities Scheme can advise without any obligation on your part.
For modern British gold sovereigns and half-sovereigns, the position is straightforward. These are among the most liquid and straightforward of all collectible items to sell, having both an intrinsic gold value and a collector premium depending on date and condition. A specialist buyer will assess both dimensions.
For further information, see our pages on inherited coin collection buyers and our guide to selling a coin collection in the UK.
Frequently asked questions
Should I clean the coins before sending them?
No — under any circumstances. Cleaning is the single most value-destructive action you can take with coins. Even gentle cleaning removes the original surface patina that numismatists use to assess authenticity and grade. A cleaned coin that might otherwise have been graded Extremely Fine can be reduced to a fraction of its value. Send every coin exactly as found.
How do I know if a coin is gold?
British gold coins — sovereigns, half-sovereigns, and older denominations such as guineas — have a characteristic warm yellow colour that does not tarnish or darken with age. They are also notably dense for their size. Common British gold coins include the sovereign (approximately the size of a modern 5p) and the half-sovereign (smaller still). If you find coins that appear gold-coloured and are heavier than expected, set them aside and mention them specifically when contacting a buyer.
What paperwork should I look for alongside a coin collection?
Any paperwork that accompanied the collection when it was purchased is worth preserving. This includes: original purchase receipts from coin dealers or auction houses, grading certificates from bodies such as NGC or PCGS (these are enclosed in sealed plastic slabs), catalogue references or descriptions written by the collector, and correspondence relating to specific purchases. Even informal notes in the collector's own handwriting can provide useful context for a specialist buyer.
Get a free estimate for an inherited coin collection
A brief description and a few photographs are all we need to provide an honest, no-obligation estimate. We cover postage costs and respond promptly — usually within one working day.
Start your free estimate →