A fine coloured stone can be worth many times its mount. An untreated Burmese ruby or a Kashmir sapphire should never be valued on gold weight alone. We assess the stones for species, origin, treatment and quality, value the mount and maker alongside, and — where a stone is significant — advise on an independent gemmological report before finalising the figure.
Free insured postage. Written valuation. Paid in 72 hours.
The short answer
To sell coloured gemstone jewellery in the UK, have the stone assessed for species, origin and treatment rather than accepting a gold weight. For sapphire, ruby and emerald the origin and whether the stone is treated matter most — an untreated Burmese ruby or Kashmir sapphire can be worth many times a heated stone of the same size. Fair Vintage's gemmologists value the stone and the mount separately, advise on a laboratory report where it is worthwhile, and pay by bank transfer within 72 hours, with free insured postage both ways.
We buy jewellery set with coloured stones of every kind — sapphire, ruby and emerald above all, but also aquamarine, tourmaline, opal, garnet and the rest. The stone drives most of the value, so the assessment centres on the gem: its species, colour, origin and treatment. This page is for coloured stones specifically — if your piece is set with diamonds, our diamond ring service handles those, though a coloured-stone piece with diamond accents is valued as a whole.
Blue, pink, yellow and other fancy sapphires in rings, clusters, pendants and earrings. Origin matters enormously — Kashmir, Burmese and Ceylon sapphires command premiums, and untreated stones far more than heated ones. Assessed on colour, clarity, cut, size and treatment.
Fine rubies are among the most valuable coloured stones. Burmese "pigeon's blood" rubies, and any untreated stone of good colour, sit at the top. Rubies are commonly heat-treated, which is normal but affects value. We assess origin, treatment and quality carefully.
Colombian emeralds of strong green are the benchmark; Zambian and other origins are also valued. Most emeralds are oil or resin treated, which is expected — the degree of treatment and the clarity drive value. Emeralds are fragile, so send them unclean and intact.
Aquamarine, tourmaline, opal, garnet, amethyst, topaz, peridot, spinel, tanzanite and more. Some — fine paraiba tourmaline, black opal, colour-change stones — carry significant value. We identify the species and grade the stone accordingly.
Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco coloured-stone jewellery, including foil-backed and closed-back settings. Period, craftsmanship and maker add to the stone value. Signed pieces by known houses are especially sought after.
Single rings through to matching suites of necklace, earrings and bracelet. A complete suite carries a premium over separated pieces. We value the stones and the mounts together as one piece, never breaking a set apart.
Origin and treatment are everything. Two rubies of identical size can differ enormously in value depending on where they came from and whether they were heated. Because treatment is invisible to the naked eye, a significant stone is best confirmed by a laboratory report from a recognised gem lab. We will tell you honestly whether a report is worth obtaining — for a modest treated stone it usually is not, but for a fine untreated gem it can transform the figure.
Unlike diamonds, coloured stones are not graded on a single universal scale — value turns on species, colour, clarity, cut and carat weight, and then decisively on origin and treatment. Our gemmologists examine the stone in the mount, identify natural from synthetic, look for the signs of heat, oil or resin treatment, and weigh the quality of the setting and any maker's marks. We then value the stone and the metal-and-mount separately and present both in a written valuation. Where a stone is significant enough to justify it, we advise obtaining an independent report before the sale is finalised. For a broader overview of the process, see our jewellery valuation page.
Never remove a stone from its mount before selling — the setting, period and maker all contribute to value, and an intact piece is worth more than loose stones and scrap metal. Avoid harsh cleaning: emeralds especially are fragile and can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaners and solvents, and old foil-backed settings must never get wet. Send the piece exactly as it is. If you are selling an inherited collection, our guide on selling inherited jewellery without feeling rushed may help.
Stones assessed for species, origin, treatment and quality; mount and maker valued alongside; both explained in a written valuation. Free insured postage both ways. No obligation — we return your jewellery free if you decline.
Request a free valuation →How is coloured gemstone jewellery valued?
Coloured stones are valued differently from diamonds. For a sapphire, ruby or emerald the key factors are species, colour, clarity, cut and carat weight — but above all origin and whether the stone has been treated. An untreated Burmese ruby or Kashmir sapphire can be worth many times a treated stone of the same size. We assess the stones, mount and maker together, and for significant stones may recommend an independent report before finalising.
Do you buy sapphire, ruby and emerald jewellery specifically?
Yes — the three classic precious coloured stones are our core interest here. Sapphire, ruby and emerald rings, pendants, earrings and bracelets are all bought, whether antique, Art Deco, mid-century or modern. We also buy aquamarine, tourmaline, opal, garnet, amethyst, topaz, peridot and spinel pieces. Diamonds are handled through our diamond service, but a coloured-stone piece with diamond accents is valued as a whole.
Does it matter if my gemstone has been treated?
It matters a great deal to value. Most rubies and sapphires are heat-treated and most emeralds are oil or resin treated — this is normal and such stones are perfectly saleable. But an untreated natural stone of good colour is far rarer and worth substantially more. Because treatment is not visible to the naked eye, significant stones are best confirmed by a laboratory report, which we can advise on. Do not clean or re-cut a stone before selling.
Do you buy synthetic or lab-created coloured stones?
Synthetic sapphires, rubies and emeralds have been made for over a century and appear in much vintage jewellery, so the mount may still hold gold or platinum value even if the stone is synthetic. We identify natural from synthetic as part of the assessment and value the piece honestly on that basis. If you are unsure what you have, send it and we will tell you — no charge, no obligation.
Should I remove the stones or have them cleaned before selling?
No. Never remove stones from their mount — the setting, maker and period all contribute to value, and an intact piece is worth more than loose stones and scrap metal separately. Avoid harsh cleaning too: emeralds in particular are fragile and can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaners and solvents. Send the piece exactly as it is and let our gemmologists assess it complete.
How much is coloured gemstone jewellery worth in the UK?
It ranges widely. A modern ring with a small treated sapphire may be valued close to its gold content plus a modest stone value, while an antique piece with a fine untreated Burmese ruby or Colombian emerald can be worth a great deal more. Origin, treatment, size, colour, cut and the quality of the mount all count. We provide a written valuation explaining the stone assessment and the metal and mount value separately.
Do you need a gemmological certificate to sell a coloured stone?
Not to start — send the piece and we assess it in the mount without any paperwork. If you already hold a report from a recognised laboratory such as GIA, Gübelin, SSEF or the Gem-A, include it, as it supports the figure and confirms origin and treatment. For a modest treated stone a report is rarely worth commissioning; for a fine untreated ruby, sapphire or emerald it can materially raise the value, and we advise honestly whether it is worthwhile.
Do you buy antique and Art Deco coloured-stone jewellery?
Yes — period pieces are a specialism. Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco jewellery set with sapphires, rubies, emeralds and other stones is valued on the stone, the craftsmanship, the period and any maker as a whole. Old closed-back and foil-backed settings are handled with care and never washed. A signed piece by a recognised house can carry a substantial premium above the intrinsic stone and metal value.
Do you buy a matching suite or a single earring on its own?
Both. A complete suite — necklace, earrings and bracelet en suite — carries a premium over separated pieces, so keep sets together and send them as one. Equally, a single gemstone earring, an odd ring or a pendant that has lost its chain is still worth valuing on its stone and mount. We never break a matching set apart to value it.
Do you buy coloured-stone jewellery inherited through probate?
Regularly. Inherited gemstone rings, brooches and estate collections are welcome, and we provide clear written valuations suitable for executors as well as purchase offers. We itemise each piece, never rush a family decision, and return anything you keep free of charge. Where several beneficiaries are involved, an independent written figure gives everyone an evidenced basis to divide or sell.
Will I pay Capital Gains Tax when I sell gemstone jewellery?
Jewellery is a personal possession, so Capital Gains Tax can apply if a single item sells for more than the £6,000 chattels threshold and shows a gain over what you paid or its probate value. Many pieces fall under the threshold, but a fine untreated ruby, sapphire or emerald may not. We are not tax advisers — for anything substantial or inherited, confirm your position with HMRC guidance or an accountant. We provide the written sale figures you need.
What does selling coloured gemstone jewellery to you involve?
Request a free, fully insured postage pack, send your gemstone jewellery to our gemmologists, and receive a written valuation explaining the stone and mount figures. If you accept, payment is by bank transfer within 72 hours — and we pay a 3% penalty if we miss that guarantee. If you decline, we return the piece free by insured post. Postage is covered both ways and insured up to £5,000, so there is no cost or risk in getting a figure.
Also see: Sell jewellery · Sell diamond rings · Jewellery valuation · Sell diamonds
Also buying: Antique jewellery · Art Deco jewellery · Pearl jewellery